Stocking and method of making



June 10, 1930.-

w. s". (PARKER 1,763,367 swocxine AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed Dec. 21; 1921 Patented June 10, 1930 WILLIAM S. PARKER, OF ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO BUBSON KNITTING GOM- PANY, OF ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING Application filed December 21, 1927. Serial No. 241,651.

Thisinvention relates to the manufacture of fashioned hosiery and has for its principal object the provision of a novel method of making fashioned stockings without the necessity of the customary fashioning opera tions of widening or narrowing the leg portion. According to my invention a tubular stocking is knit throughout the leg and angle portions at two distinct widths, the width of the leg portion continuing throughout the calf portion and the width of the fabric being abruptly reduced at the ankle. A piece of the fabric is then cut off from the back of the wider tubular portion along a line corresponding with the usual fashioning at the calf, and the cut edges are united by a seam. This produces a tubular knit stocking fashioned at the calf without the necessity of special mechanism such as is employed in knitting either a full-fashioned stocking fabric or a tubular fabric fashioned in the knitting.

My invention also aims to providea stocking embodying the characteristics described and including a mock seam along theback. which seam serves to unite the cut edges described and thus provides a single continuous seam at the back of the stocking.

. Another object is to manufacture a stocking according to the method described in which the portion at the back is out off simultaneously with the seaming operation, thus simplifying and reducing the cost of manufacture.

- Still another object is to provide a novel method of making a fashioned stocking hav-, ing a V-shaped heel or high splice, or any ornamental effect of this character. This phase of my invention is of special utility in the use of straight parallel row knitting machines in which the pattern mechanism is limited in its capacity. For example, with cylinder pattern mechanism for manufacturing a split sole stocking and having provision for widening at the calf and at the top of the leg there is not suflicient pattern capacity for any additional fashioning without a corresponding addition of control mechanism. By dispensing with the fashioning at the calf and employing the method of my inart as the invention becomes better understood by reference to the following description when considered in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which'- Figure 1 is a diagrammatic side view of a stocking showing one embodiment of the faplric knit in accordance with my invention; an Fig. 2 is a similar view of the finished stockmg.

In the practice of my invention either a straight or a circular machine may be used for knitting the tubular stocking fabric; and in describing the present embodiment I have taken as an example, a stocking knit on a straight machine, such as of the Burson type. l/Vhile it is customary with this type of machine to knit a stocking starting with the toe, it should be understood that my invention is in no way limited to this order of knitting but contemplates broadly, certain distinct improvements in the knitting of a tubular fashioned stocking irrespective of the direction of knitting. Furthermore, it is not essential to my invention in its broader aspect that the foot be knitted on the same machine that knits the leg portion.

Referring to theodrawing the usual split foot is shown. The knitting is started with a set-up at the point of the toe 3 as is well known in this art, and the toe proper is knit with the usual widening operations. The split sole 4: and the heel 5 are then knit in progression in the ordinary or any preferred manner, it being customary to employ. a heavier or more durable yarn for the under portion of the foot including the toe, heel and high splice.

In continuing the knitting beyond the heel to produce the high splice 6 and the tubular ankle ortion 7, the pattern mechanism which contro s the number of needles inaction is according to my invention designed to extend the said high splice to provide a V--p0int effect 8, at the back. This pointed effect may start from the end of the suture as at 9 and continue by narrowing to the point 10, or it may start approximately at the suture point 11, and continue by narrowing along a line extending from'the point 11 directly to point 10. Following the narrowing operation the knitting will be resumed from the point 9 or 11, as the case may be, by widening until the point 10 is reached. The knitting will then be continued round and round.

By extending the high splice in this manner the stocking is not only reinforced above the heel but a desirable ornamental effect is produced. This efiect may of course be varied as to shape and proportions, the examples referred to being merely for purpose of illustration; and instead of knitting the portion 8 by narrowing and the opposite portion by widening the same effect may be produced by suture knitting similar. to knitting the split foot.

After knitting the ornamental effect referred to or (in the absence thereof) after reaching a suitable point in the knitting of the ankle portion 7, the balance of the needles for knitting the leg portion are thrown into action to form a set-up or closing between the points 13 and 14. After that the tubular knitting is continued with these needles to the top which may be widened at 16 as is customary. Any'suitable garter top 17 may be provided. The fact that the abrupt widening referred to is produced by starting a new set-up along the line 1314, after which the knitting is continued round and round, avoids runs or drop,

stitches as for example with silk and other yarns of a similar nature.

Following the knitting of the fabric I prefer to board the stocking on a special form, the shape of which conforms substantially to that shown by the full linedrawing, Fig. 1. This boarding operation will leave a slight crease along the back of the stocking following the contour thereof, which crease is de. sirable as mark or guide for the application of a mock seam. This mock seam may be applied in any suitable manner, by hand or machine, it being preferred, of course, in the commercial manufacture of stockings to em-. ploy a seamlng machme for this purpose.

Before applying this seam, or simultaneous therewith, a' triangular piece of fabric at the back defined by the numerals 13, 14 and 18,

is cut off alongthe line 13-18, this line cor-,

responding with the usualline of fashioning at the calf of. the leg or, as is commonly known in: the use ofa Burson type machine, the line of widening. When the mock seam isapplied it will be continued along theline 13 ..18 and serve to unite the cut edges of the fabric, and will be further continued down to the heel. As shown in Fig. 2, a mock seam such as described extends along the back from the heel to the top of the stocking, as designated by 19. By'employing a cutter attachment in connection with a seamin machine the triangular piece, of fabric refierred to may be cut off simultaneous wit-h the operation of seaming, thus not only uniting the cut edges between 13 and 18 but also providing a continuation of the mock seam along the back of the stocking. By uniting the said out edges in the manner described, a neat and finished seam is produced without wrinkling, bulging, or otherwise distorting the fabric and the finished product has the appearance of a continuous seam from heel to top with no noticeable difference between the mock and actual seam portions. Instead of applying a scam the full length of the stocking the cut edges only may be united, although in actual practice the full length seam is preferred.

WVher-e the pattern mechanism of a. knitting 'machine is limited in its capacity of needle control movements, my invention is especially advantageous because it enables the prodnotion of additional reinforcing and ornamental effects in the knitting of a fashioned tubular stocking. This is accomplished by utilizing for the additional fashioning a part at least of the pattern control capacity ordinarily used for the widening.

It will be apparent from the foregoing that my invention may be put into practice by the use of difierent types of knitting machines, also that it is not confined tothe knitting of an entire stocking nor to the application of a mock seam, although these features have distinct advantages.

I claim:

The method of making a fashioned stocking on an opposed flat bed knitting machine, which consists in knitting a tubular ankle portion wtih a certain number of needles; then simultaneously throwing into action more needles for the knitting of a wider tubular leg portion but, before knitting with these additional needles, forming a set-up or closing with said additional needles; then knitting the leg portion and completing the stocking, and subsequently cutting off a portion of the fabric, including that with the set-up in it, on a line corresponding with the fashioning at the calf, and joining the cut edges by a seam.

In witness of the foregoing I aflix my sig- 

